1. Cherries: Use jarred sour (morello) cherries or home-canned tart cherries in their own juice. About two 20 oz jars give 3 1/2 cups drained. Save the juice for the filling and the syrup. Cherry pie filling works in a pinch: skip the filling steps, and use juice from a jar of cherries for the syrup.
2. Measuring flour: 1 cup = 150 g. Fluff the flour, scoop, and level. Weigh it if you can.
3. Doubling the recipe: Changing the servings multiplies every amount straight across, but the baking powder and baking soda should not go up the whole way. Keep the first batch's amount in full and add three quarters of it for each extra batch. Doubled, 1 1/2 tsp baking powder becomes about 2 5/8 tsp (not 3), and 3/4 tsp baking soda becomes about 1 1/4 tsp plus a pinch (not 1 1/2). Too much and the layers rise more than the pans can hold.
4. No alcohol: Replace the rum with more cherry juice, or add a few drops of rum flavoring.
5. Cherry filling: Cornstarch thickens only at a full boil, and a long boil after that thins it again. Make it up to 2 to 3 days ahead and keep it covered in the fridge.
6. Pans and doneness: Two 8- or 9-inch round pans both work. Done layers spring back when pressed lightly, and the center reads about 200 to 205°F on an instant-read thermometer. A slight dip in the middle is normal.
7. Chantilly cream: Stiff peaks stand straight up without flopping over. If you overwhip it, stir in a splash of cold heavy cream by hand, and don't put it back on the mixer.
8. Chilling and slicing: The overnight rest sets the layers so the slices hold together. Cut with a long knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between cuts.
9. Storage: Covered in the fridge for 3 to 4 days. Freeze single slices up to 1 month and thaw overnight in the fridge.
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