Whisk the base: In a large bowl, whisk 2-3 large egg yolks, ¾ cup granulated sugar and 1 cup unsalted butter until smooth, 30 seconds to 1 minute. A mixer with the whisk attachment speeds this up.

Add the rest of the wet ingredients: Whisk in ¼ cup sour cream and 1 tsp vanilla extract. Stir ½ tsp baking soda into ½ Tbsp white vinegar and add it too. Add 2 tsp baking powder last and whisk until smooth again.

Add the flour: Add 2½ cups of the 2½-3 cups all-purpose flour and mix with a spoon, then with your hands. Gently knead the dough to bring it together, adding the rest of the flour a little at a time until the dough is soft and does not stick to your hands.

Set aside the lattice dough: Cut off one third of the dough for the lattice. The dough is ready to use right away; chill it for 30 minutes if you want neater lattice strips.

Heat the oven: to 350°F with a rack in the middle.

Press in the bottom crust: Press the larger piece of dough evenly into a 9x13-inch pan and about 1 inch up the sides. Your fingers or the bottom of a measuring cup work well.

Slice the apples: Peel and core 3¾ lb apples, then slice them about ⅛ inch thick. Toss them with 2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice right away so they stay pale.

Toss the filling: Right before filling the crust, toss the apples with 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 tsp vanilla extract and ½ cup plain dry breadcrumbs. The breadcrumbs soak up the apple juices.

Fill the crust: Spread the apples evenly over the dough. Leave any juice behind in the bowl.

Make the lattice: Roll the smaller piece of dough with a rolling pin into a 9x13-inch rectangle on a floured surface and cut it into ¾-inch strips with a pastry wheel or knife. Weave the strips over the apples, then pinch the ends onto the bottom crust.

Brush and sprinkle: Brush the lattice with 1 large egg using a pastry brush, then sprinkle with 1 Tbsp granulated sugar.

Bake: for 45 to 55 minutes, until the lattice is deep golden and a knife slides easily into the apples.

Cool and slice: Let the pie cool in the pan for at least 1 hour so the filling sets, then cut it into 15 squares.

Optional meringue: Skip the egg wash and sugar. Whip 3 large egg whites with ¾ cup granulated sugar to stiff, glossy peaks. Spread the meringue over the lattice before the pie goes in, then bake as above.